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Saturday, June 18, 2016
Top 10 Pictures that shocked the world
Friend welcome on Online Photography Guide photography blog today. Friend we are collect some of best and amazing images and top information collect around the world.
Today we are collect Top 10 Pictures that shocked the world for everyone.
Every image describe 1000+ plus world. This all of images collect from internet and make single post today. You really shocked with this images. If you have any type question and more information please comments in comments section and you have other shocked image send me throw contact us pages.
10. Kosovo Refugees ( Carol Guzy )
09. War Underfoot ( carolyn Cole)
08. Thailand Massacre ( Neil Ulevich )
07. After the storm ( Patrick Farrell )
06. The Power of one ( Oded Balilty )
05.World Trade Center 9/11 ( Steve Ludlum )
04. After the Tsunami ( Arko Datta )
03. Bhopal Gas Tragedy 1984 ( Pablo Bartholomew )
02. Operation Lion Heart ( Deanne Fitzmaurice )
01. Tragedy of Omayra Sanchez ( Frank Fourier )
---------------------->Video <-------------------------
--------------- Thanks for watching -----------------
Thanks friend for seeing top 10 pictures that shocked the world. If you have any type question and more please comments and share in your timeline. If you want received regular updates please subscribe our youtube channel and like our twitter account, facebook page and other major social media profile. I hope you really want more and more updates.
Today we are collect Top 10 Pictures that shocked the world for everyone.
Every image describe 1000+ plus world. This all of images collect from internet and make single post today. You really shocked with this images. If you have any type question and more information please comments in comments section and you have other shocked image send me throw contact us pages.
10. Kosovo Refugees ( Carol Guzy )
09. War Underfoot ( carolyn Cole)
08. Thailand Massacre ( Neil Ulevich )
07. After the storm ( Patrick Farrell )
06. The Power of one ( Oded Balilty )
05.World Trade Center 9/11 ( Steve Ludlum )
04. After the Tsunami ( Arko Datta )
03. Bhopal Gas Tragedy 1984 ( Pablo Bartholomew )
02. Operation Lion Heart ( Deanne Fitzmaurice )
01. Tragedy of Omayra Sanchez ( Frank Fourier )
---------------------->Video <-------------------------
--------------- Thanks for watching -----------------
Thanks friend for seeing top 10 pictures that shocked the world. If you have any type question and more please comments and share in your timeline. If you want received regular updates please subscribe our youtube channel and like our twitter account, facebook page and other major social media profile. I hope you really want more and more updates.
What is the landscape Photography ? How it Work ?
Landscape photography is a great field
of photography, especially if you love nature and if you love to travel. You
can travel the world taking pictures of beautiful scenes across many countries.
Of course, this is landscape photography on a big scale. Not many people are
lucky enough to start off traveling the world.
But you can find beautiful landscapes
right where you live. That's the great thing about nature, it's everywhere, and
landscapes are everywhere. And that same sunset behind the mountain that you've
seen every day since you were a kid may look pretty amazing to someone who has
never been to the mountains. Seeing the sun rise up out of the oceanfront may
be absolutely astonishing to someone who has never been to the beach. It's all
relative.
What you may see every day is someone
else's treasure. If you can open your eyes to the beauty and see it, then other
people can see it in your photography. It can be simple and every day or it can
be vast and amazing. It's all about the great pictures you take. You may see a
night city skyline, a series of lightning bolts or an interesting cloud; it's
how you take the picture that makes it beautiful to someone else.
Why ShootLandscape Photography
Make Money with
Landscape Photography
If you are considering landscape photography as a career
(even part time), the first thing you are going to want to do is learn as much
about it as possible; read books, take classes, visit websites. Then you are
going to want to practice, and build a portfolio. Your portfolio should be
updated often and only include your absolute best work. You may want to send
some of your best photos to photo contests or magazines. These are good ways of
breaking into the world of professional photography when you have no
experience.
1. Catch
the Nature's Movement: Numerous individuals consider scene photography as
catching a picture of the serene, unwinding, and still nature.. Actually, we
can include some "dramatization" to our scene photography. Catch the
developments in the nature, for example, water stream, cloud development, and
swinging clears out.
Catching these
sort of developments certainly requires a tripod and impartial thickness (ND)
channel. When we catch the picture effectively, it could appear as though it is
from a different universe with an exceptionally solid disposition.
Individuals may
contend "that does not look genuine, does it?"
"All things
considered, I didn't take photographs for documentation, did I?"
2. Collaborate
With the Weather; Climate is unusual. It is either great climate and take
photographs, or awful climate and do it some other time. Imagine a scenario
where I let you know terrible climate is useful for your scene photography.
An excess of
picture takers take photographs just amid the great days. Then again, on the
off chance that you catch the snippet of a rainstorm, tempest, and other awful
climate condition, your photographs will be extremely remarkable and possibly
the main kind on the planet. Remember that everyone can make utilization of
good clear blue sky, yet just couple of picture takers work in the terrible
climate. Conflict with the standard and be remarkable.
3. Brilliant
hour and Blue Hour; Golder hour alludes to the time amid dusk. You will see the
brilliant shade of the sky when the sun sets.
After the sun
sets, don't pack up and motivate prepared to clear out. Rather, sit tight for a
minute until the sun totally sets and you will witness another best timing for
scene photography. This is known as the blue hour.
Blue hour is the
time after the sun is gone and before it is totally dim. You will see a dull
blue sky. Turn your camera on and catch the occasion. Brisk!
4. Line
and Shape; Play with sythesis. Lines and shapes give an exceptionally solid
impression to a picture. Likewise recollect the viewpoint and vanishing point.
Both give an extraordinary profundity of field sensation which is exceptionally
intriguing to a viewer's eyes.
5. Change
Perspective; I can't overemphasize it, investigate as much as you can. Get the
interminable imagination in scene photography. Change your perspective when
taking photographs of an article.
Notwithstanding
changing from high point to low edge gives you a very surprising impact and
state of mind.
6.
Catch the Details of the Landscape; Scene
photography is not singularly wide point. Try different things with diverse
sorts of lens. On the off chance that you just have a typical lens, then all-encompassing
photograph can be an option.
7. Use
HDR (High element range) Technique; HDR for scene photography can be an
extraordinary option when camera channel is not accessible.
The best
approach to do it is by taking pictures of comparable items with diverse
exposures, then consolidating them. Joining the pictures should be possible
utilizing picture editorial manager programming, for example, Photoshop.Don't
overprocess your picture. Make it look characteristic, not a 3D toon.
8. Continue
Shooting! In the wake of perusing every one of the tips,
the time has come to begin and make a move. Keep in mind folks, knowing is
nothing, applying what you know is everything. The absolute best thing you can
do to enhance your aptitude on scene photography is by doing it. ( Image credit Creativelive )
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
What is Exposure in Photography ? Why is Important ?
Introduction in photography
dialect is the "uncovering" of a picture sensor to light. In a
computerized SLR camera this includes opening up the front of the camera at the
lens pressing so as to open the screen discharge catch and permitting the light
to hit the CCD or CMOS picture sensor. Three things control the measure of
light entering the camera.
Exposure Triangle
1.
First is the size or diameter of the lens opening, called the Aperture.
Aperture is measured as f-stops, such as f/2.8 or f/11. The smaller the number,
or f-stop, the more light is allowed into the camera. So, a lens set at f/4.0
will allow much more light to hit the image sensor than a lens set at f/9.0.
2.
The second is the length of time the lens is allowed to open; this is
called the shutter speed. Shutter speed is measured in seconds. For instance a
shutter speed of 1/40 indicates that the shutter will be open for 1/40 of a
second. Obviously, the longer the shutter is open, the more light is allowed
into the camera.
3.
ISO is the third way to control light. ISO is a control in the camera's
computer to set just how sensitive the image sensor will be to light. ISO
settings range from 100 to 3200 (and higher in the newer DSLRs). With ISO, the
higher the number, the more "sensitive" the image sensor is to light.
So you could conceivably set your ISO at a higher number, like 1600, and take
pictures in darker areas without the use of a flash. On the other hand, you can
use ISO setting of lower values, like 100, when there is plenty of light.
How to Set the Aperture
Setting
Basically, the aperture setting
controls the measure of light which is permitted through the camera lens when
taking a photo. Unreasonably, the littler the quantity of the aperture, the all
the more light which is permitted through. Consequently, an aperture of f5.6
permits more light through than an aperture of f22. The specialized
clarification for this is the aperture setting is a division and 1/5.6 gives
you a bigger number than 1/22 yet for present purposes best just to concentrate
on the way that the lower the number, the all the more light is let through.
The aperture picked additionally
crucially affects how your photo will look. Extensively talking, the littler
the quantity of the aperture, the less profundity of-center your photo will
have. As it were, with an aperture setting of f5.6, just a little measure of
your photo will be in core interest. A bigger number, say f22, will guarantee
that the vast majority of the photo will be in core interest.
These results are critical to
recall on the grounds that the aperture setting can be utilized imaginatively
to enhance your photo. Regularly talking, an aperture of f5.6 would be utilized
as a part of a photo where you wish to confine the fundamental segment of your
photo. This happens in light of the fact that at that aperture, the frontal
area and foundation of a photo will seem obscured though the fundamental piece
of your photo will be in sharp core interest. This breaking points diverting
foundations and guarantees the subject of the photograph draws the viewer's
consideration. It is most normally utilized for picture shots of individuals or
creatures and for large scale photography, for example, blooms.
A bigger aperture setting (i.e. a
higher number) would commonly be utilized for a photo where you need the whole
scene to be in center from front-to-back. This would usually be utilized for
scene photography where the picture taker wishes to keep up sharpness all
through the scene.
Aperture need can be determined
to most cameras, search for an "Av" alternative or check your manual
for how to utilize your specific camera's settings.
As should be obvious, the
aperture setting assumes a critical part in deciding how a photo looks.
Mastering this setting will permit a picture taker to take more prominent
control of innovativeness and deliver better photos. Try different things with
diverse settings to get a comprehension of which settings give the best results
in distinctive circumstances.
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed alludes to the
period of time your camera's shutter stays open to permit light to enter and
hit the camera's picture sensor. The shutter is a part in your camera body that
will open when the shutter discharge catch is discourage. It will then close
naturally after the length of time you set for your shutter to be opened had
passed. In the event that you set it in knob mode, the shutter will stay open
for whatever length of time that the shutter discharge catch remain discourage
until you discharge it.
Shutter speed is commonly shown
on your camera in entire numbers. Case, if your camera shows 500, it really
implies that the shutter will be opened for 1/500th of a second. Your camera
may likewise show the shutter speed in quotes which speaks to seconds. Sample,
if your camera shows 5", it really implies that the shutter will be opened
for 5 seconds. Another method of showcase is the globule mode. At the point
when shown as "knob", it implies that the shutter will stay open
until the shutter discharge catch is discharged. You can control your shutter
utilizing the shutter need mode. Quicker shutter speed (e.g. 1/4000th of a
second) will require all the more light for legitimate presentation. You can
augment the gap or knock up your ISO to adjust. The definite inverse applies
when you are utilizing slower shutter speed (e.g. 1/tenth of a second).
Quick shutter speed is normally utilized as a part of the accompanying
circumstances:
1) You
wish to catch a moving subject and stop it in real life. Sample, you may be at
a F1 Grand Prix circuit and wish to catch the quick F1 autos. Then again, as
the F1 autos are moving at speeds of up to 350km/h, you would need to utilize
the quickest shutter speed conceivable to solidify the F1 auto in real life, so
that the photo caught is not obscured because of subject movement.
2) You
are in a low light territory and wish to take a fix of the scene yet found that
your photos are obscure because of hand movement. You can build your shutter
speed to beat this issue and knock up your ISO or broaden your opening to
adjust.
Moderate shutter speed is regularly utilized as a part of the
accompanying circumstances:
1) Based
on the past sample on F1 auto, we can turn the circumstance around and utilize
a moderate shutter speed rather, to demonstrate how quick the F1 auto is moving
in the photo. You set your camera's shutter to open for around 1/30th of a
second or slower. You sit tight for your most loved F1 auto to go along the
track. When you see it coming, plan and point your camera at the F1 auto. When
it is sufficiently close, discourage your shutter discharge catch and in the
meantime, skillet alongside the F1 auto as it comes dashing towards and far
from you. The key here is to dish alongside your moving subject, continually
keeping up your emphasis on your subject while panning alongside it. This will
catch the movement of the F1 auto, where the closer view and foundation is
obscured, however subject stays clear and in core interest.
2) From
the past case on low light region, you can likewise turn the circumstance
around utilizing a slower shutter speed. Bring along your tripod and mount your
camera going for the low light range you wish to catch. Set your shutter to
open for around 1/tenth of a second or slower and thin your gap down to about
f/11 or littler for more introduction, keeping your ISO as low as would be
prudent. Discourage your shutter discharge catch and sit tight for your camera
to finish the shot. What you get is a sharp picture which is appropriately
uncovered with no movement obscure.
3)
You wish to catch the movement of streaming
waterfall or waterway. Utilizing quick shutter speed will solidify the water
and make it look excessively static and not vivacious. Rather, you can apply
the same idea of setting a moderate shutter speed and little gap, utilizing
your tripod for strength. This will permit you to catch the movement of
streaming waterfall or waterway, giving an exuberant vibe to your photo.
Iso speed
Basically, the higher the ISO
number the speedier the speed of the sensor or film. Film speed portrays how
quick, or delicate, the sensor or film ingests the light that falls upon it. I
will basically concentrate on the computerized side as the lion's share of
today's photographers incline all the more vigorously towards advanced.
Most Semi-Pro and Pro
computerized cameras permit you to alter the iso affectability. The lion's
share of low to mid-range advanced cameras have an ISO range that goes from
something like 50 or 100 up to around 400 to 800. A lower ISO number requires
all the more light to acquire a legitimate presentation on a given shot.
The larger part of individuals
would be slanted to turn the ISO setting as far as possible up to get the most
light conceivable. What isn't right with this? In spite of the fact that a
higher ISO setting will assimilate all the more light and catch a decent
introduction even in low light, there is an issue. The higher you set the ISO,
the more "commotion" there will be, bringing about your photos to
turn out grainy.
With Technology today there are
approaches to utilize higher ISO setting without adding to a fluffy photograph.
Nowadays, numerous advanced
cameras use some type of clamor diminishment for their higher ISO settings. In
spite of the fact that at first look diminishing commotion may appear like a
decent course to go, it likewise has its own defeat. Utilizing so as to lessen
commotion is regularly proficient little measure of obscure. In spite of the
fact that you may have the capacity to obscure out the commotion, you will
obscure out the fine detail you are attempting to catch.
When all is said in done, you
would ordinarily need to utilize the most reduced ISO setting as could be
allowed. The key advantage to utilizing a computerized camera is the capacity
to locate the ideal setting in a split second. A photographer can shoot a
photograph and see it quickly giving him the capacity to make rectifications
and shoot once more.
For a perfect photograph a
photographer would need to utilize a lower ISO setting. At the point when
utilizing a lower ISO setting, light is not generally promptly accessible.
There are two unmistakable approach to make up for lighting issues when
utilizing a low ISO. A photographer will change the shade speed to permit the
screen to stay open for a more drawn out timeframe, permitting all the more
light to pour onto the sensor. On the off chance that a photographer uses a
more extended screen speed, by and large the camera will be mounted on a
tripod, a mono case, or some other type of supporting.
One extra choice to acquire
legitimate lighting, is to use a flash. A key to utilizing a flash is to not
shower the subject being photographed in direct light unless wanted. Play
around with diverse flash settings to get the sought results.
At the point when shooting with a
computerized camera, a great beginning ground is to set you ISO to 400 and
alter from that point. Lower ISO measures up to not so much grain but rather
more clarity.
Camera Exposure Modes
1.
Completely programmed mode: This sort of mode as
a rule implies you have no power over gap and shade speed despite the fact that
some will give you some control over ISO or glimmer.
2.
Self-loader mode. Normally you need to pick both
of the controls: screen need autoexposure or gap need autoexposure.
For instance, in the event that you pick opening need
autoexposure mode then the camera will pick (or rather compute) the suitable
screen velocity to uncover the photo. Obviously the setting depends on a
pre-picked ISO
3.
Manual mode: In manual mode you need to pick the
right settings for opening, screen rate and ISO. This obviously is for more
experienced picture taker and typically there is a meter to tell you whether
you are on focus with the settings you set.
4.
Programmed scene modes: In this programmed scene
mode, you may pick the suitable mode as indicated by diverse sorts of items or
subjects you mean to shoot. For instance, picture, scene, games, moderate
movement, close up, and so on. Moreover the camera will choose the shading,
difference and sharpness too. Frequently blaze control is additionally assumed
control by the camera.
Tips when utilizing the completely programmed mode
Taking a photograph in
autoexposure mode is simple in the event that you take after the tips
underneath.
Simply outline you subject or
protest in the camera's viewfinder or screen. Delicately press the screen catch
(part of the way through) and hold it there - the camera will investigate the
scene and set the right exposure. At that point press the shade catch the
distance down.
Tips when utilizing the self-loader mode
Screen need autoexposure: In this
mode, you pick the shade speed and leave the f-stop (opening) setting to the
camera. This is best to take questions or subjects that are moving as screen
pace figures out if the photo will be obscured or sharp.
Tuesday, June 14, 2016
What is the role of Composition in Photography ? Composition Guide
Composition is a scene formed with an
artistic arrangement of various elements present in the scene.
The objective of composition is to
produce a very much pleasing visual result. Composition is vital to successful
photography. Therefore, knowing the basics of composition will do you good.
Goal of Composition in Photography
Fundamentally, composition is
about assembling objects in your viewfinder so as to accentuate the bits you
need to, making them emerge in simply the right way. These objects incorporate
anything in the forefront, the foundation, those that "casing" the
photo, and above all light. I'm certain you've seen numerous scene photos with
such a variety of items in them that you've genuinely had no clue what the
subject really was? Is it true that it was the mountain? All things considered,
it could have been, yet it's kind of clouded by that tree. No, what about the
waterfall, yet that is not exceptionally focused, and in any case I've never
seen a sky that shading.
The reality of the situation is
that best photographic compositions are truth be told entirely straightforward,
there may be various questions however there is never any uncertainty as to
what the subject really may be.
Another extraordinary truth is
that regardless of how costly your camera hardware is, that without an
information of composition, you'll never have the capacity to "catch"
the quintessence of the picture you see. More terrible still, somebody with a
less expensive set up, and who thinks about composition, will more than likely
be creating better photos...
Annoyingly, a few individuals
appear to have the talent for making all around created pictures, while others
need to shoot and shoot whilst they sharpen their composition aptitudes. The
essential thing to recollect is that wherever you begin, you will just show
signs of improvement with practice.
With scenes the test is to catch
a picture so that the subject is introduced in the way that you need it to be,
which for some methods adapting better approaches for seeing what is before
you.
Other than the subject, there is
obviously "light", it can have all the effect between a fabulous
picture and a dull and uninteresting one. Ensure you take note of the lights
bearing, power and shading (yes the shade of light changes significantly, e.g.
toward the starting and end of the day).
Other than the shade of the
light, the position of the sun in the sky additionally majorly affects a photo,
as when the sun is low it produces glorious shadows that improve the subjects
shape and give it that essential 3d impact.
There is something else about
taking photos when the sun is low in the sky, as this implies it is either
early or late in the day and in this way its power is not at its tallness,
which thusly implies that the scope of complexity (the contrast between the
profound shadows and highlights) is low, something that truly helps catching
the subtle elements in both (particularly with computerized cameras).
The perspective is the following
fundamental fixing, however exactly what is the best? Here no one but you can
advise, you simply need to move around the subject, taking a gander at it from
diverse points and from distinctive statures, also diverse central lengths from
the wide to the telephoto. These will have emotional effect on the picture you
catch and there is no genuine recipe to take after, with the exception of maybe
one.
This composition
"equation" focuses on something many refer to as the
"thirds". Take any picture and gap it into three equivalent part both
the long way and stature insightful and you wind up with 2 vertical and 2 level
lines, setting anything on these vertical lines can truly stress them, whilst
putting anything on the crossing points can be truly effective. Remembering these
"thirds" when making your photo could have all the effect.
To whole up, when taking your
photos, choose what your subject is, from which perspective and edge it looks
the best, choose where to place it, and above all, ensure that the light is
right, after all with scenes there is ordinarily constantly one more day.
Composition Guide for Beginners
We live in three-dimensional
world and exchanging this 3D world to the plane picture means removing our
existence! You cannot demonstrate this present reality effectively on the off
chance that you don't comply with specific guidelines. You need information of
the laws of the Composition in photography, generally your photography
diversion will be just insignificant pushing the shade catch and your
photographs won't be fascinating for anybody at our online photography classes.
Counsel.
Synthesis laws must be complied,
yet without obsession! Once in a while you may even rupture them with a
specific end goal to get shots that are altogether different from each other.
Judgment skills of the great
created photograph is the point at which we taking a gander at it with
effectiveness and delight. We see legitimate association between articles in
the still and we like it! Be that as it may, from the other perspective, now
and then picture taker must break the standards of organization, keeping in
mind the end goal to let us know about his inventive thought and make us
astounded!
Subject focus and adjust in the picture.
Each great photography must have
some fundamental article. For the purpose of this principle object picture
taker ascensions to the highest point of the most astounding mountain, goes
submerged, or goes to safari, or possibly simply get loose at the companion's
BBQ and made a couple of shots. You may consider anything to be a focal point
of the picture.
With a specific end goal to shoot
great picture you have to find that focal point of the primary article. At that
point, you have to underscore in your brain what is the most fascinating for
you. Possibly surprisingly it will be troublesome for you to get primary focus
and you should work out, utilizing your creative energy and glancing around. In
any case, after some season of such preparing you will discover fascinating
plots straight away.
You might likewise utilize
"standard of the thirds". This technique quite often gives you a
chance to make the progress.
In the event that picture taker
needs to change picture structure, he can do this in couple of ways:
- 1. picking certain camera point
- 2. picking presentation revision
- 3. editing
- 4. picking correct time to squeeze screen catch
- 5. changing central separation
- 6. picking between picture or scene alternative
- 7. delivering
- 8. utilizing diagonals
Setting your principle item
matter on a corner to corner will quite often make your photograph more
dynamic, move around the article and search for an askew with different items in
frontal area or foundation.
Sorts of the Perspective in photography.
1. Tint
viewpoint - when objects, found further and further down at the foundation are
gradually losing their shading and tone profundity and appear to be dissolving
without end in separation.
2. Straight
point of view - when minor lines meet up at the skyline and lead your look from
forefront to the foundation and we can focus our consideration on the critical
items at the foundation.
3. Example
or musicality - when there are comparable items on the still and they are step
by step diminishing while moving far from purpose of the shooting.
4. Frontal
area - when picture taker puts a few items at the forefront keeping in mind the
end goal to make 3D profundity to the photo all in all.
A standout amongst the most
essential perspective in photography - it is the "key minute"; it is,
the point at which you press the shade catch at the most critical minute! Also,
I may let you know from my experience that you may be sitting tight for this
unique minute for very much a drawn out stretch of time. Be that as it may,
this is the thing that isolates proficient picture takers with their
understanding and authority, and novices, who incline toward simply simple to
use! Thus, on the off chance that you need to make truly intriguing
photographs, you have to realize and try to see our online photography classes and
schools, how to be patient and watch nearly how the circumstance is creating
and dependably be prepared to press the shade catch! ( All Published image is owner or copyright of owner )
Working Artist Photography Award 2016
The Working Artist Photography Award is a bi-monthly $1000.00 Art Purchase Award, available to all photographers and photo-based artists working in all genres, traditional and non-traditional photography formats, media and styles.
Working Artist Org. is dedicated to discovering, collecting, and promoting great art and artists.
We are pleased to offer our new Working Artist Photography Award, a monthly one-time art purchase award dedicated solely to photography and photo-based artwork. This award works in tandem with our monthly general discipline Working Artist Grant/Art Purchase Award.
The Working Artist Photography Award is available to all domestic and international photographers and photo-based artists working in all traditional and non-traditional photography formats, genres and styles. Work accepted for review includes but is not limited to film, digital photography, digitally manipulated photography, glitch, straight and abstract photography, landscape, still life, fashion, documentary, street, black and white, color, and all methods concerning the finished photographic print.
If selected as our winner, we ask that the award recipient be willing to exchange one of their original works or smaller series of original works for inclusion in our collection, in return for our award. Work considered by the artist as of equal value, and available for acquisition can be negotiated upon receipt of the award. We do pay the artist’s shipping costs. Please send us your best work for review.
Monday, June 13, 2016
Tuto 7: Split Lighting and high speed sync flash
We will discuss two techniques in this tutorial: the Split Lighting and flash photography in high speed sync mode (Auto FP).
Split Lighting
Nothing complicated here, it is quite the opposite! Split lighting (which can be translated as "divide the light") is a basic lighting of the portrait photography.
The aim of this technique is to illuminate the subject by only one of its sides.
In the first example below, the subject is illuminated by a remote flash located in front of his face and slightly above the subject. The flash is used without any diffusion or reflection accessories.
Split Lighting
Nothing complicated here, it is quite the opposite! Split lighting (which can be translated as "divide the light") is a basic lighting of the portrait photography.
The aim of this technique is to illuminate the subject by only one of its sides.
In the first example below, the subject is illuminated by a remote flash located in front of his face and slightly above the subject. The flash is used without any diffusion or reflection accessories.
In this second example, the flash is located on the right of the subject, and is used in a softbox (or light box).
This technique allows simple but powerful lighting that brings more emotion than lightings yet more complex in terms of number of light sources (this is only my opinion :).
Flash with high speed sync (Auto FP)
It is important to note that the technique of split lighting alone can not immerse the subject completely in the dark as is the case in the previous two examples.
In fact, the original background of these two shots was perfectly white, it is playing with the settings of your camera and using a remote flash with high speed sync mode that you can achieve this result (very easy to get !).
High-speed sync mode (visible also under the name Auto-FP, FP Focal plane) enables the flash to operate at high speed synchronization. In general, a flash will synchronize with your shutter up to 1/200th of a second. With Auto-FP mode, it is possible to maintain this synchronization up to 1/320e second.
Pro cameras can run up 1/8000e second. Your flash in auto-FP can operate at speeds above 1/320e but its power will quickly become insufficient.
Typically, a flash in auto-FP is used to reduce shadows on a model during a shooting outside in bright light, we will see how to use this away to achieve the result of the second shot:
1) Camera in manual mode (to be able to adjust the ISO sensitivity, aperture and shutter speed).
2) Internal flash camera in controller mode only.
3) The remote flash (here, a SB-700 in a softbox) is configured on the camera to operate in auto-FP (1/320e)
4) I set the ISO at the minimum (ISO 200 on the Nikon D700).
5) I use a very small aperture (f/16)
6) The exposure time is set to 1/400th
7) The flash is positioned a few centimeters from the face of the model, completely on his right (our famous split lighting).
8) I manually adjust the flash output to achieve the desired result.
To understand the fact of working with such adjustments: on this case, taking a shot without flash, would be like photographing your shutter: we would get a completely black picture. On this basis, we can then flash to get just enough light to illuminate the subject.
Other tutorials on portrait lighting and the flash will quickly follow. and regulat checl our social media profile with visit website once a day.
Sunday, June 12, 2016
FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS
FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS
FIRST CONTEST CELEBRATING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY
Art is born out of passion. Fine Art photography is a perfect instrument, which allows a person to communicate with the world and share their vision. It results from the author’s deep sensitivity, a need to express feelings through image, a unique view of the surrounding reality. It can be spontaneous, but it can also be a conscious and deliberate manifesto. FAPA is searching for photos born out of passion – your passion.The competition is open to everyone, amateurs and professionals alike. Entries are welcome from any country in the world. Your work will be judged by an international panel of high profile photographers.
The winners of the Professional and Amateur sections will receive the titles: Professional Fine Art Photographer of the Year, Amateur Fine Art Photographer of the Year and $5000 in cash prizes.
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